Lobster Shell Sauce

Believe it or not, you can use lobster shells to create a beautiful, rich and flavorful stew or stock.

Consider this as the base for memory-making homemade lobster bisque, a classic nouvelle lobster à l’américanine, or a sauce and garnish for sautéed or grilled fish. From this recipe you can make many dishes, as well as get a greater understanding of lobster and how to cook with it.

A wise chef once said that the quality and amount of flavor extracted from a lobster is dependent on the cook’s level of commitment to the dish. Overcooking can ruin the texture, while boiling or steaming does not capture the full flavor. The following recipe is not for the quick-file; this is for those wanting more kitchen skills and dream of lobster in color and full of bold flavor.

Speaking of color, the beautiful tones and flavor of the lobster shell will not be pulled when boiling or steaming lobster because it is fat-soluble. To do so we recommend both oil and cream to get the most out of each lobster.

Serves 4 to 6

4 live lobsters
¼ cup olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
4 tomatoes, chopped
½ cup dry white wine (or sherry, Madeira)
3 sprigs of thyme (1/2 tsp dried)
3 sprigs of tarragon, coarsely chopped (optional)
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
4 or 6 sprigs chervil (optional)

We recommend live lobsters for you will need as many shells as possible (not just that of the tail). Please refer to our discussion on cooking live lobster for other options, but we recommend the ‘knife’ method. Turning the lobster back side down, insert a knife and bring it forward cutting through the head. Segment the lobsters by twisting away the tail and pincers, pull the grain sack out of the head, and slice the body (carapace) and tail in half lengthwise.

In a heavy-bottom skillet, sauté the lobster pieces on high heat in the oil with the lid on, it will take about 5 minutes or until they turn orange. Remove the lobster and add the onion and carrot to the sauté pan. Lower to medium heat and cook, stirring regularly, for about 12 minutes or until the onion and carrot are softened but not brown. Add the tomatoes, wine, thyme, and tarragon to the pan, cover and simmer gently while you grind up the shells.

Remove the meat from the shells and set aside on a plate, saving all but the claw shells (which are too hard for the food processor). Place the shells in the processor and grind for about 1 minute or until coarsely ground.

Add the ground shells to the tomato mixture and simmer covered for 5 minutes, or until the shells release their flavor. Pour in the cream, bring back to a simmer, and strain through a course-mesh strainer, and then through a fine mesh strainer into a small saucepan. Push down on the contents of the strainer with the back of a ladle or wooden spoon to release as much liquid from the shell mixture as possible.

If serving this à l’américanine, cut the lobster meat in pieces so that everyone gets the same amount. Put the pieces, in portions, on a sheet pan, and cover it tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until just before serving. Thirty minutes before serving, put the lobster in the oven at its lowest setting.

Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Place the portions of warmed lobster in soup bowls, pour the hot sauce over the top and decorate with a chervil sprig.

*This recipe is from Cooking by James Peterson